The pet en l’air, finished

In retrospect, I would have been better off with the metric system… 2 yards of pink silk taffeta were just not enough but 2 metres would have been. IMG_0121 I wonder if I am not going to end up agreeing with Janet Arnold’s take on the Francaise… that it is the easier type of gown to make. (If I ever make one of my own.) I guess the mass of fabric is bound to be unwieldy but the fit is much easier to handle. And having made this, I know where I can improve the fit – more shoulders/arms, less waist.

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ironing this petticoat would have been a good idea…

But this jacket also gave me some insight into the the scariest part of my planned Francaise – the self-trim.IMG_0127 I didn’t actually need a lot of trim for this jacket… I forewent the trim at the bottom hem (even though this is pretty common with pet en l’airs (although there are quite a number without it) and the trim on the robings just went straight down. There is an exceptionally good reason for that although I didn’t document it well….

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Actually, you can barely guess it here.

The robings had different widths on each side. I am not sure how I managed this – and how I failed to notice until fairly late into doing the stomacher actually. The stomacher had a few real life inspirations:

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This stomacher from a pink francaise from Kyoto was the main inspiration.

I was kind of floundering what to do with the stomacher trim, except that the stomacher’s purpose was to close the entire jacket through its middle with hooks and eyes. (I am not a fan of pinning a stomacher closed.) So I went through my copy of Fashion and spotted my fabric’s distant color cousin and was convinced that it would be perfect pattern-wise. I was working with my two-yard leftover yardage at this point (which was just assorted bits and bobs), so I didn’t have enough length with what I thought was the necessary full width. But then I found this:

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From the V&A: The trim becomes ever more narrow towards the bottom. And it has fabric covered buttons!

And this is how I ended up with this compere stomacher with a false button closure. IMG_0137

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Interior view.

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The V&A documented the trim being applied after the lining was attached to it.

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So why disagree with the period option?

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